Planning, Permit and Complete change in Plans
After last years trip to Munshiyari from Haldwani on Bike with Stefan (I could not blog that one for various reasons) this year me and Stefan planned the Arunachal Trip. We had done Ladakh, Uttarakhand and now it was time to do the North East of India on Bike!
The planning - Initially 3 more guys showed interest in the trip including Deep, who was my riding partner for Brevets and training rides since many years. Later other two dropped out and only Me, Stefan and Deep were part of the plan. We booked flight tickets in August I guess, to firm up the trip.
We knew there will be permit required for all of us. We found out that there was a way to apply online for both Indians and Foreigners. Me and Deep applied online and we got permit without any hassle. We thought Stefan as foreigner can also apply online and get it. We were not aware of the complications for a foreigner!
Our plan was to land at Itanagar and start riding from there to Ziro Valley and then to Pasighat using the Mountain route. There is another route through the plains but that would have been warm and not fun at all. As always there was no proper plan for how much to ride each day and where to stay. We would take each day as it comes.
Plan was set from 16th November landing at Itanager and return from Itanagar was set for 27th November. From Bangalore I had to book for 15th November as I got connection to Itanagar only on that day. Stefan and Deep booked same flight from Delhi to Itanagar on 16th. Stefan was landing in Delhi a week in advance. He has many friends in India to keep him busy for a week.
Stefan applied for the Protected Area Permit (PAP) after landing in Delhi as it required image of the entry stamp on the passport to be uploaded. It also asked for a second passport details for which I asked Stefan to enter my passport details. After couple of days we realised that the request was rejected. Minimum two foreigners were required to apply together for the online application to go through. Post that I enquired with the local travel agents and they advised that Stefan should visit the Arunachal Bhawan in Delhi to get the permit. Stefan took that effort as well but with no luck. I tried many travel agents and they all said for lone foreigners it is not possible to get the permit. It was unfortunate because he would not be travelling alone but with his Indian friends. Our system wanted a foreigner. Something which is beyond my logic, but rules are there for reasons of national security.
We had to change our plans. As Stefan can't enter Arunachal, we will have to ride in Assam and Nagaland instead. We saw a Google map route from Itanagar to Jorhat in Assam which was around 123 Kms. That was the nearest point where we could have met Stefan. So we asked him to reach Jorhat. Flight from Delhi to Jorhat were very expensive so he decided to land at Dibrugarh and take a train from there to Jorhat. I booked a homestay closer to the outskirts from Brahmaputra where me Deep would reach cycling from Itanagar.
This change in plans also gave me opportunity to plan my visit to Tuli - a place where I stayed in my childhood. I was in Tuli from 1980 to 1982. I was already feeling nostalgic.
I arrived in Itanagar on 15th November and proceeded to the homestay I had booked for all of us. At the airport I was asked for the foreigner permit. When I mentioned that I'm Indian they didn't even bothered to check the Inner Line Permit that I had. Many times people confuse me for a foreigner. But it proved that Stefan would have been asked for a PAP upon landing. And ironically Itanagar airpot is only 200 m from the Assam border!
I reached the home stay. It was with two bedrooms and was very decent. The owners were very helpful and I need to mention especially that they even provided me a cycle stand to assemble my cycle!! This was a first in my bike touring experience.
After assembling my bike I took a test ride next day to the downtown Itanagar just to check if everything is ok with the bike. Centre of the town was a 5 Kms climb!
Deep arrived next day. Stefan landed in Dibrugarh and took a train to Jorhat. It's amazing how a Swedish national lands in a place called Dibrugarh, which most of the Indians haven't even heard about and then takes a train to Jorhat from there . How many Indians will do that in a foreign country?
Stefan reached the Homestay in Jorhat on 16th Evening.
Deep told me that we have two ferry points on our route to Jorhat. First a tributary to Brahmaputra and then the mighty Brahmaputra itself. You can see the below route of 125 Kms for reference.
We had earlier taken ferry once when we rode from Sagar to Kundapura in Karnataka. I was like "We will see". Of course I had no idea what it was!!
Day 1 - Itanagar to Jorhat (Assam) (147 Kms)
Me and Deep started from Itanagar at 6 am towards Jorhat. Initially it was hard climb of 5 Kms to the downtown which I had also experienced the previous day.
While climbing we met a cyclist from Itanagar Cycling Club. If I remember correctly his name was Kanto. We had quick chat while riding and didn't stop as we had a long ride ahead.
There was no breakfast place open so we ate some cup noodles in a bakery. Not an ideal choice but there was no option. The terrain was hilly rolling in Arunachal. As soon as we entered Assam it became flat. We took a right turn at around 55 Kms mark towards the first ferry point. Roads were horrible after that. Broken Tar roads turned into dirt roads little later. We were following Google Maps and after some time we found ourselves under a bridge on a river bed with no where to go. We figured out that we can catch the route if we go over the bridge. We turned back and found the way to go over the bridge. Roads were not improving though. Little later it became tiled roads which were not good either as you can't ride fast on them with load on cycle. After lot of trouble and asking around we reached the first ferry point only to find out that it has moved 5 kms from that place as water has receded. And obviously it was a river bed on which we will have to ride. Finally we reached the first ferry point. There was one small shop selling Samosas. I bought lot of them before boarding the ferry. We were requested for many selfies before we boarded the ferry.
This was a relatively small ferry and we were standing almost at the edge. It took around 10 mins to cross the river. Once on the other side we realised we will have to ride 10 kms on the river bed before we get on the road.
It was a tough ride along the river. But the actual road was also not anything great. We were getting increasingly tired riding on river beds and dirt roads. After some time I realised my rear tyre has low pressure. I stopped and checked it seemed like a puncture but tyre was not completely flat so it has to be a pin. There was no place to repair the tube so I just pumped up the tyre and started riding forward. There were tarred roads only for a few kms. It was either dirt roads or tiled roads. Finally we reached the turn from where the second ferry point was only 8 kms at around 1.30 PM. There was a restaurant also at the turn where we had first proper meal of the day. They served nice Assamese Thali. After lunch I checked my rear tyre it was still holding pressure so we started riding towards the ferry point. You can't ride any faster than 15-20 KMPH on those tiled roads. When we reached the ferry point we didn't see any sign of ferry there. Locals told us to go to another ferry point as this point was closed because water has receded.
Never Trust Google in remote areas of India!
Anyway it was tiled road and not dirt road till the next ferry point. After riding for 5 Kms I checked the distance to next ferry was still 15 Kms. My rear tyre went flat again and this time it was fully flat. So pumping it up will not help. It was 2.30 PM already and last ferry would leave at 3.30 PM. There was no time to repair. We started looking for a support. There was an e-rickshaw standing there. After lot of request he agreed to drop us to the ferry point! I'm still not sure how two 6 feet plus tall guys, with their large cycles and luggage fit into that small e-rickshaw. However, he dropped us to the ferry point just before 3.30 PM. There was a huge crowd at this ferry point waiting to board. It had two jettys for boarding and both points were equally crowded. We some how made our way to the front from the side. Upon seeing us with cycles the ferry guys gave us priority treatment and asked us to board ahead of all the guys, motorcycles and cars. We cyclists really enjoy these little extra attention!
It took us 45 mins to cross the Bramhaputra river. Sun was setting and it was a beautiful view all round.
Even when water had receded it was still massive. Thankfully this time the exit point was same and our homestay was around 12 Kms from there. It was completely dark by the time we got down from the ferry. We found a small lighted area near the exit and started fixing the puncture. With great difficulty I found the pin stuck in the tyre. Deep was trying to remove it when it suddenly vanished. I thought it must have dropped out and I put a new tube, pumped air. Thankfully we had carried our bike lights as it was very dark. It felt little better to finally ride on tarred roads. We reached the homestay around 6 PM. It took us 12 Hours and 147 Kms (We rode around 122 KMs) to reach the Day 1 destination.
Stefan was waiting for us there. We went to eat in a nearby restaurant by car. Stefan had visited Hollangapar Gibbon Sanctuary in Mariani, which was 25 Kms from the homestay. We didn't want to ride too much next day so Stefan suggested we ride to the Gibbon Eco Camp Resort next to the Sanctuary and stay there for a night. Me and Deep both liked the idea. For people not very well versed with wildlife, Hoollock Gibbons are only Ape species found in India and they are critically endangered due to loss of habitats.
Day 2 - Jorhat to Gibbon Eco Camp (Mariani) (26 Kms)
After having breakfast at the home stay we started for the Gibbon Eco Camp at Mariani.
It was just a 26 Kms ride with last couple of Kms being through the tea gardens.
Gibbon eco camp is a nice place in middle of tea gardens. Cape Langurs were frequent visitors in the nearby trees.
In the night we were sitting on the verandah of the room when an owl came and sat on the tree branch very close to us. It was Asian Barred Owlet!
We decided to ride to Tuli in Nagaland next day which was around 50 Kms with the last 10 Kms in being mountainous. I stayed in Tuli in my childhood between the age of 8 Years and 10 Years. I was so looking forward to it as we all siblings have very fond memories of the place. Since it was not a tough ride we decided to take a walk in the Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary in the morning. It was a surreal experience although we could not spot Hoolock Gibbons even after a lot of effort.
After returning from the sanctuary we had our breakfast and started for Tuli!
Day 3 - Gibbon Eco Camp to Tuli (Nagaland) (51 Kms)
This ride was through the gardens all through till we hit Nagaland Border.
Half way to Tuli we stopped for Tea at Amguri. Amguri was the place we used to deboard from Train and take the Car/Jeep to Tuli in those days.
We were also stopped by a lady for selfies. She was showing special interest in Stefan. This part of India don't see many foreign tourists.
As soon as we crossed into Nagaland it was a tough climb for almost 5-6 Kms. On the top we were around 7 Kms from the Tuli town. We thought of going around to find my childhood home after we find a hotel and eat something. As soon as we started our descent I saw the SBI (State Bank of India) and realised that my old home was somewhere nearby and not actually in the town. Actually the Paper Mill where my father was posted was there and township was around the Mill. Mill shutdown long time ago due to various issues.
Stefan and Deep are much faster than me on downhills partly due to the disc brakes they have on their cycles. By the time I got sight of them we had descended 5 kms and only a couple of KMs from the town.
At that point my rear tyre was flat again! The pin was still inside. We found a shaded place to repair it. I found the pin and successfully removed it this time. I decided to patch one tube and use that instead of using my last spare new tube. After fixing it we went to the town and to the hotel which we had looked up on Google. It was a nice hotel and pretty big for a small town like Tuli. Our room was on the 3rd floor with no lift. It was 2 pm already and there was no lunch option in the hotel. We ordered the food from outside. We showered and got ready by the time lunch arrived. He missed giving some items but the overall quantity was just enough for three of us. After lunch we requested hotel to arrange for an Auto to go around the Paper Mill area to find my old house. We little bit of difficulty we finally found the house and I must admit that it was pretty nostalgic. I also video called my sister and showed her the house.
We also visited the Old Church and Shiva temple which was little up the hill. While returning we stopped at a cafe for coffee and snack. Surprisingly it was a very nice cappuccino made from coffee grown in Nagaland. We reached back hotel and discussed the plan for the next days ride. Mokokchung was around 70 Kms from Tuli and there was a small town called Changtongya at around 30 Kms mark. I was doubtful that we will be able to ride to Mokokchung in that Terrain and was also not sure if we can find something to stay at Changtongya. We decided we will take it as it comes and take support to Mokokchung in the worst case.
Day 4 - Tuli to Changtongya (30 Kms)
After getting ready in the morning I went down to check the bike and saw that the rear tyre was flat again. After checking found out that the patch was leaking and I replaced the tube with a new one this time. Deep was also carrying spare tubes and our tyres were more or less same size.
After breakfast we started around 8 am. Just after a few Kms, road construction was going on and at the same time climb started. We knew beforehand that it was a continuous climb till Changtongya but were not aware about the road conditions and steepness of the climb. Roads were extremely bad.
At some some points in the climb the gradient was close to 20%! All in all it was a treacherous climb to Changtongya. When we reach the town, all of us finished a full 500 ml coke bottle which gave us some entegy. I enquired a hawker standing there for a hotel. He said little further towards the other end of town there is a hotel. When we rode to the place we were surprised to find out that it was an extremely nice hotel. We immediately got the rooms and asked them for a coffee and some pork momos!
For dinner we asked them to prepare local food. I must say the food was very very good there!
I was worried about the road conditions from Changtongya to Mokokchung. Stefan said government will not have resources to start construction on such a big stretch. So in all probability roads may be bad but at least construction would not be happening.
Day 5 - Changtongya to Mokokchung (40 Kms)
We started for Mokokchung after having the breakfast.
Roads were bad and good in patches. The climb to Mokokchung was gentler than the previous days climb.
As we climbed up it started to become very beautiful all around.
Finally we reached Mokokchung and checked in a hotel near the main crossing of the town. After showering we went to a cafe which Deep had researched about. Again to our surprise it was a wonderful place.
We ate like pigs I must say. We planned to have a light dinner in hotel only. The hotel guys were little reluctant to cook but eventually agreed. Next days ride was to go back to Mariani if we could ride all the way. There was a little town called Changki after the major climb (around 15 kms of climb) of the route. We decided, in case we get very tired we will stop there for a night if we can find a place to stay!
Day 5 - Mokokchung to Gibbon Eco Camp (89 Kms)
This ride started with a long downhill for almost 20 KMs. Roads were mostly ok and were very good for the first 5 KMs of the long 15 Kms climb.
Last 10 Kms of climb had pathetic roads but since the climb was gentler we managed to do it without much exhaustion. At top of the climb was the Changki town. Since we were feeling OK we thought of continuing to Mariani.
After the climb it was another dowhill. Roads didn't improve. There was flat section in the middle which was very dusty. We were hoping we will find some place to eat. After the dusty flat section there was a small 3-4 kms of climb.
It was getting sunny also. We were getting increasingly hungry and there was no place to eat. At the start of the small climb we saw a vegetables and fruits market. We stopped there to eat some bananas. It was a life saver!
After that small climb we hit a little town. There was one small eatery which we crossed and then returned to enquire about food. Fortunately we got Pork fried rice there.
The roads were getting better from there onwards. We had to cross around 10 Kms of forest, which was a gentle climb all the way and after crossing the forest we crossed into Assam. Terrain became flat. From there on it was an easy ride of about 25 Kms to the Gibbon Eco Camp. We reached there just before it started to get dark around 3.30 PM.
This marked the end of our Nagaland loop.
From there Stefan will go to Guwahati to catch a flight to Bangalore after spending a day there. Me and Deep decided to ride to Dibrugarh, which was a 138 Kms of flat ride. It would be an extremely tough ride because we were already fatigued from our previous rides. From Dibrugarh we would take a train to Nahalagun which was only 15 Kms from our homestay in Itanagar.
Day 6 - Gibbon Eco Camp to Dibrugarh (138 Kms)
It was going to be a long ride so we tried to start as soon as possible in the morning after the breakfast. On the way we stopped briefly to meet Deep's old colleague, who after quitting his corporate job was running a diagnostic lab there.
Thankfully it was cloudy which made our ride experience less worse. It also drizzled little bit which helped in settling down the dust. We stopped for tea and then Lunch at around 90 Km mark. Our bums were hurting a lot from the accumulated fatigue.
We saw body of an Air India plane next to the highway. Maybe a flight themed restaurant was getting ready. It was little surprising at first.
Around 20 Kms before the destination we stopped for some cold drinks.
Deep had researched a hotel with a bar on the roof top. We straight went to that hotel. The front desk staff was very courteous and the rooms were really good.
The bar was not open because they were still waiting for the license.But they arranged beer for us!
This was last major ride for the trip. Stefan also did a 100 Km ride around the Gibbon Eco Camp that day.
Day 7 - Dibrugarh to Naharlagun (Bike-Train-Bike)
Our train was. at 4 PM. We went to nearby car wash to get our bikes washed. Bike was full of dust. The entire region was actually full of dust because of the Brahmaputra flood plains. Hotel was generous enough to give us an extended checkout!
At around 2 PM after lunch we cycled to the railway station. After enquiring at the parcel office we were told that we need a physical copy of the Aadhaar to parcel the bikes. We cycled to the nearby photocopy shop and got a printout. Advantages of being on a cycle!
We weighed our bikes. With load the bike weighed around 25 KGs. Without load it weighs around 15 KGs. The total charge for parceling the bike was Rs 71 (Yes Rupees Seventy One only). Lees than 1 USD/Euro.
Train arrived little late. The parcel van was at the rear end and our coach was in the front. After putting our bikes in the parcel van with help of the railway staff we rushed to our coach and were seated just in time before the train started. The terrain looked beautiful.
We reached Naharlagun at around 7.30 PM. We had to wait little bit for the railway parcel officer to come and open the parcel van. After taking our bikes we rode to a hotel which was around 4-5 Kms from the station on the way to Itanagar. We were even feeling short climbs now because of the tiredness. This was second time we would use lights on the bike in our trip. We reached the hotel, had dinner and crashed to the bed.
Day 8 - Naharlagun to Itanagar (15 Kms)
Next day we started early before breakfast as it was a short ride to Itanagar. Out of the total 15 Kms, 10 Kms was the climb to the city centre and then downhill from there to the homestay. We ate breakfast at the city centre before going to home stay at Bhai Bhai hotel. That Paratha, Omelette with Pulses Vegetable Gravy tasted very yummy.
This time we got better rooms in the homestay. Felt nice after such a tough bike touring trip!
We boxed our bikes the next for the return trips. Deep went to Jaipur and me tback to Bangalore.
I met Stefan at Bangalore who also arrived here one day before me.All in all it was wonderful trip else I would not take the pain of writing this blog!!
Comments
Loved your story ... absorbing and interesting. Keep up the good work.