Nubra Valley on Cycle
Money fills your pocket and adventure fills your Soul
If you have read my last blog you will know I had started the preparations for this around 3-4 months before trip. Lot of riding and climbing practice I did during that time.
In the end there were only three people going on this Trip. Stefan, from Sweden, Prashant from Delhi and myself from Bangalore. We were representing three different generations age wise. Age difference is close to 20 between me and Stefan and close to 40 between Stefan and Prashant.
We thought 2 days of acclimatisation at Leh should get us over the Mighty Khardung La and down into the Nubra Valley at the start of our ride. Stefan being the wisest and most experienced decided to make it 3 days for himself.
However it so happened that my Delhi - Leh sector #Spicejet flight got cancelled and I was delayed by a day. It was very unprofessional of Spicejet to cancel the flight after issuing the boarding cards. There were many people on my flight from Bangalore to Delhi who were supposed to go to Leh and they all were stranded.
Full day at Delhi allowed me to go and meet my sister and brother in law at Gurgaon. I was served some exotic Rum and ended up almost polishing off the bottle!
It also meant I slept very late and had to wake up at 3.30 am for the flight next day. Arrived in Leh with a bad hangover. Reached the place of stay, Sangto Green Guest House. The freshness of mountain air has a magical effect on me. I slept in the afternoon for sometime while Prashant and Stefan went for a short ride.
Assembled the bike post lunch and it was ready to roll! We went for short ride next day just to test the bike and buying stuff for the expedition. Prashant wanted to take us to a lunch place which he had read about in some magazine. That place was not easy to find and we went around the entire Leh market three times before we could find the place and then it turned out that it was not a nice place. We eventually decided to have lunch somewhere else.
In the night city was lit up as Ladhak Festival was also running during the same time. However, we took it easy as next day we had to climb Khardung La. Prashant had contacted a travel agent who helped us for Indian and Foreigners Inner Line Permits for all places in Ladhak region. The same agent also arranged for support vehicle which would carry our luggage to the Khardung La Top while we would cycle to the top. For people who are not aware its around 1900 meters climb (38 KMs) from the Leh city going up to the altitude of 5359 meters (Almost as high as highest mountain in Europe). Air is very thin at the top and it said that Oxygen levels are at 60% of the sea level. Prashant and Stefan had done the climb earlier in 2016, for me it was going to be first time!
We started around 6.15 AM as it would take around 9 hours to climb to the Top. It was very good view of the Valley from the mountain and Stok range on the other side.
4 kms before before South Pullu (24 kms mark) I started feeling the lack of oxygen and just two days of acclimatisation was proving to be a bad decision. We did the entry at the check post at South Pullu and rested for an hour almost before starting the climb again. Although just 14 kms were left but roads became very very bad after just 4 kms. As you climb up it becomes tougher and tougher. Near the top I was resting after every 100 meters. Last km of the climb took forever! Finally reached the top. Stefan had reached an hour before me and Prashant may be 20 mins before me.
Took shower with Cold Water and must say it was very refreshing! Then Stefan went for shower and announced that if I make weird noises just ignore. It will all be because of cold water!!
We had dinner at a nearby highway restaurant and went to sleep. We were very tired after climbing Khardung La so getting sleep was no issue at all.
Next day we took it easy and got up late. It was only a 50 odd kms ride to Hunder that we were planning. Loaded the panniers on the cycle and rolled on! We would stop a lot to take pictures. Prashant took much more than me and Stefan! At Khalsar we stopped for lunch, here we bumped into a motorcycle riders gang who were going to Siachin Base camp. It immediately caught our attention and we decided to explore possibility of riding there too. Good thing about self supported rides is you can change the plan anytime you feel like.
Near to Hunder we saw this amazing scene of double humped camels eating leaves from bushes next to accumulated water.
We reached Hunder and then checked into a guest house. Had shower again with Cold water. Hunder was very very warm. The place where one could get a camel ride was around 1.5 kms walk from the Guest House. We went there and near to that place there were more photo opportunities.
Carrying camera all the way was now feeling worth once again. I was not interested in camel ride as principally I don't like animals being used. However, saw that the animals were really being treated well and Prashant was very keen that we all take a ride. First Stefan agreed and then I gave in. It was just 15 mins ride and it was fun.
While returning to the guest house we had dinner at a restaurant and it was probably the only place the food was not good in the entire trip.
Although there were lot of lights in he small town but I set up my camera to shoot Milky Way galactic centre. You could see it through naked eye in the night. Got a good shot but I'm not completely satisfied with the result. Need to better this.
Next day, we planned to reach Turtuk (last village before LOC where Tourists can stay), around 88 kms from Hunder. We started after breakfast from Hunder and we had some idea that the terrain will be Rolling. Trust me in Strava everything looks flat. But once you ride you know! It was very severe head winds too. Little later the valley got narrower. We stopped after around 20 kms at Skuru for some tea and snacks and looked at map to figure out a place to have lunch. There was a place around 22 kms further and we decided to break there for lunch. When we reached the town we were already hungry and to our surprise that town had absolutely nothing except for a milestone! Now it was going to be riding in Hot Sun with empty stomach. However the landscape and beauty made it little easier.
We had some biscuits and dry fruits which we ate and we redistributed the remaining water between us and started riding. After around 8-9 kms we crossed the Shyok River and other side of the bridge there was a board - Army Wet Canteen 2 kms. It was a relief! Those two kms however was very steep climb and it took everything out of us!
Army wet canteen had Maggi! Do you need anything else!! We all had couple of Maggi and headed towards Turtuk.
We saw the the landscape changing near Bogdang and the villages were more greener than the Ladhaki Villages. Geographically we were in Baltistan!!!
Just 15 Kms before Turtuk the roads became very good. Newly laid smooth roads. Finally we reached Turtuk. There were hotels and guest houses on the highway but we wanted to stay in a homestay to get the real feel of place and the culture. One person told us the homestay are in the village up the stream, left side of the highway. The road next to the stream was very steep and we had to walk up pulling the loaded cycles. Just a short walk and there was a bridge across the stream connecting the two sides of the village.
There were homestays both sides and as we were tired we decide to stay the same side as the road was. Me and Prashant went and fixed a homestay but when we returned Stefan asked us to check the other one and finally we settled for the other one. Hot water was taking time so I again showered with cold water! I had started liking this showering with cold water.
The village was very green and had extremely narrow lanes with stream water flowing all around the village in the narrow channels. It was beautiful and it was something which we had never seen or experienced before!
We took pictures on the bridge as it seemed to be very important part of the place. Walked to the other side of the bridge and found a cafe with WiFi!! That basically kept us busy for next couple of hours. Later we found out that one side of bridge was Sunni community and the other side was Noorbaksh Shia community. So that bridge was an important bridge!
We decided to stay in Turtuk for two days. The place was so good that one could spend a week there. And also we wanted to go till the end of India and near the LOC just to get that feeling of being at the border of two countries.
The brother of the house lady, Bashir, helped us with all the logistics and information. Prashant took a photo of map of all the tourists points in Turtuk which would help us next couple of days. We were served a simple tasty food with a lavish spread of home grown salad! We ate like there is no tomorrow. Stefan was carrying 500 ml Swedish Single Malt, we would have a small drink from that each night! It would actually last only till Turtuk!
Next day morning we had asked for a local breakfast. We got Pancakes made of Buck Wheat with a very tangy yoghurt dip on the side! its called Kissir and Tsemik.
We went with Bashir till the point where we could see LOC and more! It was an amazing feeling to see the LOC I must say. Can't explain why though.
We came back to Turtuk and went walking till almost end of the Village on the other side of the bridge. There was a very old house converted into a museum. We saw lot of stuff there which were part of Baltistan culture. The stone vessels, the dresses and other stuff.
After that had some coffee at a cafe which was just next to the bridge and had a nice view of the stream flowing underneath.
We fixed up Bashir for next day to show us around the other side of the town. The other side of town was also very interesting. We saw the royal palace and met descendant of the Yabgo dynasty who were rulers of Turtuk and Baltistan for a very long time in history.
The King narrated to us the entire story of the dynasty and history of the palace. It was an intriguing session!
After this we took a walk up the road which actually was used only by the military. One more thing to mention that it was apricot season and we kept getting fresh apricots everywhere. In fact apricot and apricot products are the main source of income for the locals!
That evening we had to take a call whether we are riding back or taking bus to Diskit or taking a cab till Panamik. Cab was expensive option but it would give time to explore more around Panamik and maybe a chance to go up to Siachin Base Camp! After some close door discussion we decided to take cab to Panamik. We were lucky that a cab had come to same homestay and it was free for next day to drop us to Panamik. Things happen! We experienced this in Spiti trip also.
Morning we loaded the bikes on the cab and in under 5 hours we were in Panamik. It was a very small place with not lot of options to stay. We picked up a place right on the main road. It was an amazing place with nice garden and decent rooms.
But only one common toilet. As we were late only thing available for lunch was Maggi. And we had one of the tastiest Maggi there! The owner of the guest house used to run a restaurant earlier and that explained why he had magic in his hands!
We enquired about going to going to Siachin base camp. We were told we can go till Warshi which was 40 Kms from Panamik and after that tourists were not allowed. So we had to put that plan on back burner.
We came to know there was some local cultural festival going on 5 kms down the road. So we decided to halt there in our evening ride plan to explore the place.
There were lot of activities going on there Archery, dance competitions etc. We are offered a seat and welcome drink by the locals. It was a nice experience.
We wanted to explore more place so left from there and visited the Nubra river bank, before heading out on main road and riding towards a place called Sasoma! The terrain of this side of valley was very different from the Shyok side of the valley.
We returned from the ride and had shower. Beer with Chicken was waiting for us! This would be first place were we would get beer! The chicken again was out of the world and we finished the entire plate in no time. Next day we had a very tough ride to Khardung. It would have around 25 kms of steep climb with loaded cycles at the end of 68 km stretch!
We finished breakfast and loaded our cycles to leave. The owner was kind enough to lets us pluck some fresh apples from the trees to eat during the ride.
We decided we will have lunch just before the confluence of Nubra and Shyok River. The climb starts shortly after you cross Khalsar. It was a treacherous climb in Sun with load on cycle. When we reached Khardung we were totally spent and we were back to Uncle Cho's guest house. This time we knew what to expect from uncle Cho!
Following day we were supposed to climb Khardung La again and reach Leh. In total almost 80 kms of ride. Half uphill and half downhill. We were not sure if it was possible to climb Khardung La with load even though we were fully acclimatised. So we asked around for a vehicle which can take our luggage to the top. Figured out Uncle Cho also has a Bolero camper. We asked uncle for giving us support on the ride and explained to him what it meant. Uncle was non committal. We had no other option also.
Next day morning uncle Cho refused to provide support and said he has some work in the fields! I had to show some seriousness in my tone for him to agree to help us. He asked us to put the luggage in the vehicle and ride. He will come and catch us after finishing his work.
We started again and this time it was 38 kms climb from the back side of mighty Khardung La! We were all not very sure whether we will be able to complete the ride or not. In fact Prashant decided to ride at the very last moment. We thought of taking a call at North Pullu, which was around 25 kms from Khardung. It was very very windy and that too head winds for most of the ride! Uncle Cho came as we reached North Pullu. I was getting irritated by the wind. But was in much better shape than when I climbed from the from with very less acclimatisation. We decided to ride till the point road becomes bad and then take a call. Stefan was ahead of me and Prashant was behind. 6 kms before the top I was so irritated that I stopped and waited for Uncle Cho to come. But instead Prashant came and asked me to ride on. I hopped on the cycle and reached the top. It was much easier this time as roads were also not as bad like the roads on the front side. Prashant also came within few mins and we took the customary pictures. Climbing the mighty mountain two times within a week felt good!
We had coffee at the top, then said bye to Uncle Cho, loaded our cycles and started the down hill ride to Leh. First 11 kms was extremely bad roads but it was downhill!
We reached our Guest House at Leh around 6 pm, quickly showered and got ready to Party! We went had beer! Lots of beer!
Next day was the day to relax and box our bikes for air travel. In the evening I checked mail and realised my Leh-Delhi sector #GoAir was cancelled. However they moved me to an earlier flight on the same day. I had a long wait at Delhi but reached Bangalore back on the date planned!
Stefan, like every time also came to Bangalore and we had good one week in Bangalore too!
Full day at Delhi allowed me to go and meet my sister and brother in law at Gurgaon. I was served some exotic Rum and ended up almost polishing off the bottle!
It also meant I slept very late and had to wake up at 3.30 am for the flight next day. Arrived in Leh with a bad hangover. Reached the place of stay, Sangto Green Guest House. The freshness of mountain air has a magical effect on me. I slept in the afternoon for sometime while Prashant and Stefan went for a short ride.
Assembled the bike post lunch and it was ready to roll! We went for short ride next day just to test the bike and buying stuff for the expedition. Prashant wanted to take us to a lunch place which he had read about in some magazine. That place was not easy to find and we went around the entire Leh market three times before we could find the place and then it turned out that it was not a nice place. We eventually decided to have lunch somewhere else.
In the night city was lit up as Ladhak Festival was also running during the same time. However, we took it easy as next day we had to climb Khardung La. Prashant had contacted a travel agent who helped us for Indian and Foreigners Inner Line Permits for all places in Ladhak region. The same agent also arranged for support vehicle which would carry our luggage to the Khardung La Top while we would cycle to the top. For people who are not aware its around 1900 meters climb (38 KMs) from the Leh city going up to the altitude of 5359 meters (Almost as high as highest mountain in Europe). Air is very thin at the top and it said that Oxygen levels are at 60% of the sea level. Prashant and Stefan had done the climb earlier in 2016, for me it was going to be first time!
We started around 6.15 AM as it would take around 9 hours to climb to the Top. It was very good view of the Valley from the mountain and Stok range on the other side.
4 kms before before South Pullu (24 kms mark) I started feeling the lack of oxygen and just two days of acclimatisation was proving to be a bad decision. We did the entry at the check post at South Pullu and rested for an hour almost before starting the climb again. Although just 14 kms were left but roads became very very bad after just 4 kms. As you climb up it becomes tougher and tougher. Near the top I was resting after every 100 meters. Last km of the climb took forever! Finally reached the top. Stefan had reached an hour before me and Prashant may be 20 mins before me.
It was more of relief to reach on top than the feeling of accomplishment. Quickly had some coffee and then Stefan suggested rather than riding downhill we should take support if possible, to Khardung, as it was getting late and we didn't want to ride in dark. We got support from a Vehicle going down and happily boarded into it. We reached Khardung and Checked into Cho Guest House. There were not many options there. Room was spacious and had beds for 5 people. But the trick was no hot water and only one towel. When asked about hot water, Uncle Cho (Owner of the House) replied water is hot only because its warm outside. We laughed our heart out as it was evening and the water must be 10 to 12 degrees only! When we asked for at least one more towel, he said why do do you need two towels? Also it had Indian Style Pot in Toilet. Prashant would use an Indian Styled Pot for first time in his life!
We had dinner at a nearby highway restaurant and went to sleep. We were very tired after climbing Khardung La so getting sleep was no issue at all.
Next day we took it easy and got up late. It was only a 50 odd kms ride to Hunder that we were planning. Loaded the panniers on the cycle and rolled on! We would stop a lot to take pictures. Prashant took much more than me and Stefan! At Khalsar we stopped for lunch, here we bumped into a motorcycle riders gang who were going to Siachin Base camp. It immediately caught our attention and we decided to explore possibility of riding there too. Good thing about self supported rides is you can change the plan anytime you feel like.
Near to Hunder we saw this amazing scene of double humped camels eating leaves from bushes next to accumulated water.
We reached Hunder and then checked into a guest house. Had shower again with Cold water. Hunder was very very warm. The place where one could get a camel ride was around 1.5 kms walk from the Guest House. We went there and near to that place there were more photo opportunities.
Carrying camera all the way was now feeling worth once again. I was not interested in camel ride as principally I don't like animals being used. However, saw that the animals were really being treated well and Prashant was very keen that we all take a ride. First Stefan agreed and then I gave in. It was just 15 mins ride and it was fun.
While returning to the guest house we had dinner at a restaurant and it was probably the only place the food was not good in the entire trip.
Although there were lot of lights in he small town but I set up my camera to shoot Milky Way galactic centre. You could see it through naked eye in the night. Got a good shot but I'm not completely satisfied with the result. Need to better this.
Next day, we planned to reach Turtuk (last village before LOC where Tourists can stay), around 88 kms from Hunder. We started after breakfast from Hunder and we had some idea that the terrain will be Rolling. Trust me in Strava everything looks flat. But once you ride you know! It was very severe head winds too. Little later the valley got narrower. We stopped after around 20 kms at Skuru for some tea and snacks and looked at map to figure out a place to have lunch. There was a place around 22 kms further and we decided to break there for lunch. When we reached the town we were already hungry and to our surprise that town had absolutely nothing except for a milestone! Now it was going to be riding in Hot Sun with empty stomach. However the landscape and beauty made it little easier.
We had some biscuits and dry fruits which we ate and we redistributed the remaining water between us and started riding. After around 8-9 kms we crossed the Shyok River and other side of the bridge there was a board - Army Wet Canteen 2 kms. It was a relief! Those two kms however was very steep climb and it took everything out of us!
Army wet canteen had Maggi! Do you need anything else!! We all had couple of Maggi and headed towards Turtuk.
We saw the the landscape changing near Bogdang and the villages were more greener than the Ladhaki Villages. Geographically we were in Baltistan!!!
Just 15 Kms before Turtuk the roads became very good. Newly laid smooth roads. Finally we reached Turtuk. There were hotels and guest houses on the highway but we wanted to stay in a homestay to get the real feel of place and the culture. One person told us the homestay are in the village up the stream, left side of the highway. The road next to the stream was very steep and we had to walk up pulling the loaded cycles. Just a short walk and there was a bridge across the stream connecting the two sides of the village.
There were homestays both sides and as we were tired we decide to stay the same side as the road was. Me and Prashant went and fixed a homestay but when we returned Stefan asked us to check the other one and finally we settled for the other one. Hot water was taking time so I again showered with cold water! I had started liking this showering with cold water.
The village was very green and had extremely narrow lanes with stream water flowing all around the village in the narrow channels. It was beautiful and it was something which we had never seen or experienced before!
We took pictures on the bridge as it seemed to be very important part of the place. Walked to the other side of the bridge and found a cafe with WiFi!! That basically kept us busy for next couple of hours. Later we found out that one side of bridge was Sunni community and the other side was Noorbaksh Shia community. So that bridge was an important bridge!
We decided to stay in Turtuk for two days. The place was so good that one could spend a week there. And also we wanted to go till the end of India and near the LOC just to get that feeling of being at the border of two countries.
The brother of the house lady, Bashir, helped us with all the logistics and information. Prashant took a photo of map of all the tourists points in Turtuk which would help us next couple of days. We were served a simple tasty food with a lavish spread of home grown salad! We ate like there is no tomorrow. Stefan was carrying 500 ml Swedish Single Malt, we would have a small drink from that each night! It would actually last only till Turtuk!
Next day morning we had asked for a local breakfast. We got Pancakes made of Buck Wheat with a very tangy yoghurt dip on the side! its called Kissir and Tsemik.
We went with Bashir till the point where we could see LOC and more! It was an amazing feeling to see the LOC I must say. Can't explain why though.
We came back to Turtuk and went walking till almost end of the Village on the other side of the bridge. There was a very old house converted into a museum. We saw lot of stuff there which were part of Baltistan culture. The stone vessels, the dresses and other stuff.
After that had some coffee at a cafe which was just next to the bridge and had a nice view of the stream flowing underneath.
We fixed up Bashir for next day to show us around the other side of the town. The other side of town was also very interesting. We saw the royal palace and met descendant of the Yabgo dynasty who were rulers of Turtuk and Baltistan for a very long time in history.
The King narrated to us the entire story of the dynasty and history of the palace. It was an intriguing session!
After this we took a walk up the road which actually was used only by the military. One more thing to mention that it was apricot season and we kept getting fresh apricots everywhere. In fact apricot and apricot products are the main source of income for the locals!
That evening we had to take a call whether we are riding back or taking bus to Diskit or taking a cab till Panamik. Cab was expensive option but it would give time to explore more around Panamik and maybe a chance to go up to Siachin Base Camp! After some close door discussion we decided to take cab to Panamik. We were lucky that a cab had come to same homestay and it was free for next day to drop us to Panamik. Things happen! We experienced this in Spiti trip also.
Morning we loaded the bikes on the cab and in under 5 hours we were in Panamik. It was a very small place with not lot of options to stay. We picked up a place right on the main road. It was an amazing place with nice garden and decent rooms.
But only one common toilet. As we were late only thing available for lunch was Maggi. And we had one of the tastiest Maggi there! The owner of the guest house used to run a restaurant earlier and that explained why he had magic in his hands!
We enquired about going to going to Siachin base camp. We were told we can go till Warshi which was 40 Kms from Panamik and after that tourists were not allowed. So we had to put that plan on back burner.
We came to know there was some local cultural festival going on 5 kms down the road. So we decided to halt there in our evening ride plan to explore the place.
There were lot of activities going on there Archery, dance competitions etc. We are offered a seat and welcome drink by the locals. It was a nice experience.
We wanted to explore more place so left from there and visited the Nubra river bank, before heading out on main road and riding towards a place called Sasoma! The terrain of this side of valley was very different from the Shyok side of the valley.
We returned from the ride and had shower. Beer with Chicken was waiting for us! This would be first place were we would get beer! The chicken again was out of the world and we finished the entire plate in no time. Next day we had a very tough ride to Khardung. It would have around 25 kms of steep climb with loaded cycles at the end of 68 km stretch!
We finished breakfast and loaded our cycles to leave. The owner was kind enough to lets us pluck some fresh apples from the trees to eat during the ride.
We decided we will have lunch just before the confluence of Nubra and Shyok River. The climb starts shortly after you cross Khalsar. It was a treacherous climb in Sun with load on cycle. When we reached Khardung we were totally spent and we were back to Uncle Cho's guest house. This time we knew what to expect from uncle Cho!
Following day we were supposed to climb Khardung La again and reach Leh. In total almost 80 kms of ride. Half uphill and half downhill. We were not sure if it was possible to climb Khardung La with load even though we were fully acclimatised. So we asked around for a vehicle which can take our luggage to the top. Figured out Uncle Cho also has a Bolero camper. We asked uncle for giving us support on the ride and explained to him what it meant. Uncle was non committal. We had no other option also.
Next day morning uncle Cho refused to provide support and said he has some work in the fields! I had to show some seriousness in my tone for him to agree to help us. He asked us to put the luggage in the vehicle and ride. He will come and catch us after finishing his work.
We started again and this time it was 38 kms climb from the back side of mighty Khardung La! We were all not very sure whether we will be able to complete the ride or not. In fact Prashant decided to ride at the very last moment. We thought of taking a call at North Pullu, which was around 25 kms from Khardung. It was very very windy and that too head winds for most of the ride! Uncle Cho came as we reached North Pullu. I was getting irritated by the wind. But was in much better shape than when I climbed from the from with very less acclimatisation. We decided to ride till the point road becomes bad and then take a call. Stefan was ahead of me and Prashant was behind. 6 kms before the top I was so irritated that I stopped and waited for Uncle Cho to come. But instead Prashant came and asked me to ride on. I hopped on the cycle and reached the top. It was much easier this time as roads were also not as bad like the roads on the front side. Prashant also came within few mins and we took the customary pictures. Climbing the mighty mountain two times within a week felt good!
We had coffee at the top, then said bye to Uncle Cho, loaded our cycles and started the down hill ride to Leh. First 11 kms was extremely bad roads but it was downhill!
We reached our Guest House at Leh around 6 pm, quickly showered and got ready to Party! We went had beer! Lots of beer!
Next day was the day to relax and box our bikes for air travel. In the evening I checked mail and realised my Leh-Delhi sector #GoAir was cancelled. However they moved me to an earlier flight on the same day. I had a long wait at Delhi but reached Bangalore back on the date planned!
Stefan, like every time also came to Bangalore and we had good one week in Bangalore too!
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